Lisbon is a place that somehow worms it’s way into your heart. It’s a charming city full of some of the nicest people. Add in the pretty vistas and a colorful shabby chic vibe and you can’t help but fall in love. We have had the pleasure of visiting this underrated gem a couple of times and want to share with you our advice on how to spend a few days in Lisbon. The city was built on a series of hills though, so get ready to amp up leg day! Read along for our idea of a perfect few days in one of our favorite cities. The best part is, you could follow this itinerary solo or with a group!
Day 1: Get your workout on by exploring the city’s shabby chic Alfama District
We recommend staying in or near the Baixa or Alfama districts as they are right next to each other and are central to many of the best sites. Alfama is the older quarter of town and while it is punctuated by ankle breaking steep and winding cobblestone streets (wear comfortable shoes!), it is also the most picturesque area of Lisbon. And if your feet give up on you, there are a number of elevators and funiculars that you can take that help link the different hills. You read that right…this town has outdoor, hill-height elevators!
It is full of restaurants, cafes, churches, local shops, pretty viewpoints and tiled sidewalks. When you google pics of Lisbon – 8 times out of 10 you are seeing the Alfama district. This is a great place to be both day and night. Don’t worry about a destination, just wander around and get lost.
Start in Baixa at Rossio Square, it’s a great central meeting place with a pretty fountain in the center. And make sure to look down, all of Lisbon seems to be paved with lovely sidewalk mosaics! Grab a coffee and a pastry from well known art deco – Cafe Nicola that lines one side of this square. From here Lisbon’s best shabby chic streets fan out in most directions, so it’s kind of like a real life “Choose Your Own Adventure book”! We suggest exploring as many pathways and alleys as you can stand. You can’t go wrong and it seems like there is Instagram worthy cuteness behind every corner and down every staircase. When you are done getting lost, find Augusta Street – the main thoroughfare from Rossio Square to the sea. This pleasant walk empties out into Praca do Comercio (Commerce Square). There is beautiful architecture along the way and there always seems to be something fun going on in Commerce Square.
From Praca do Comercio hop on a tram or a pink tuk tuk to explore more of Alfama. If you can find a seat on Tram 28 scoop it up! This is the most famous tram in Lisbon due to it’s scenic route and is frequented by locals and tourists alike. Of course, hoofing it up the hills has it’s own advantages too….you can take your time to stop at multiple look out points and see amazing views of the city – Miradouro de Santa Luzia was one of our favorites. We recommend a stop at the Lisbon Cathedral along the way and notice that most of the surrounding buildings are covered with painted azulejos (tiles). However you do it, make it up to Sao Jorge Castle in time for the golden hour. It’s a lovely castle that you can explore at your own pace and the views at sunset are incredible.
Once you have marveled at the panoramic Lisbon views from the castle, walk down the hill to an amazing wine bar, aptly names Wine Bar do Castelo – we know, tough to remember huh? But it was SO AWESOME. The owners are delightful and truly take care in helping you find a great wine. The charm is also oozing out of every corner since it has the appearance of being carved into the hillside and is complete with an exposed brick wall. We are suckers for exposed brick! Or you could sit on the back deck of Portas Do Sol – for a view of the castle and a drink or light snack.
After dark, Lisbon really heats up and if nightlife is your thing, we recommend a trip to the Barrio Alto. There isn’t much to see here during the day, but at night people spill out of the tightly packed bars and restaurants and the whole area buzzes with music (listen for the sultry sounds of Fado wafting through the air). For something really unique – and maybe a little creepy?- check out Pavilhao Chines. It’s an interesting bar, full of old toys and figurines, with an extensive cocktail list. It has a slightly creepy “visit to Grandma’s” vibe but don’t let that throw you – hang for a drink and then keep exploring the area.
Day 2: Explore Cais do Sodre – Lisbon’s Former Red Light District
After you sleep off your late night in the Barrio Alto refuel with a hearty breakfast in one of Lisbon’s yummy restaurants! Fabrica Lisboa and The Mill are two great options! After you are full, meander over to the Cais do Sodre area. You may know this neighborhood because of it’s famous “Pink Street” – the Rua Nova do Carvalho which has plenty of murals and other street art nearby. This formerly seedy neighborhood has been enjoying a rejuvenation as of late and has plenty of new bars and restaurants worth your Euros. They also tend to stay open later than their Barrio Alto counterparts (which usually close around 2am) so late nights here still have a swinging vibe!
But don’t worry if late nights aren’t your thing – there is plenty to see and do during the day here. You can start by strolling along the water on Avenida Ribeira das Naus for the views and people watching – especially the sailing schools that take off from here. Or you can search (in vain?) for a hidden beach that was lost during a devastating earthquake that hit the city in 1755. If churches are your thing you can check out the pretty tiles and mosaics that cover the inside of Sao Paulo church.
All this exploring will probably work up an appetite so head to the most popular place in Cais do Sodre – the Mercado da Ribeira. This gem, originally built in 1892 as a local market, has something for everyone. One side is set up like a traditional covered market, full of fresh, local produce. The other side has been transformed into a trendy food hall serving a range of options from both local and international chefs. Long farm tables foster a community feeling and form a square around the drink stalls that are in the center of the hall. This can place can get super busy so our best advice here is divide and conquer – have someone hold some seats, have someone get drinks and have a few people go to different stalls and then bring everything back and share!
You can’t visit Lisbon without experiencing Fado. This traditional musical genre is an integral part of Portuguese culture that is thought to have originated in the Alfama district of Lisbon and spread to the whole country. Fado features quite soulful and mournful lyrics and tones which highlights feelings of loss. While this sounds sad it’s actually really beautiful (if you have a good singer!). For a modern example of Fado music check out the acclaimed singer Mariza. There are a lot of places for “food and fado” in Lisbon and the best can be found in the Alfama and Barrio Alto districts. Adega Machado and Mesa de Frades are some good options, while Tasca do Jamie is a more gritty local favorite.
Day 3: Get Nauti(cal) in Belem – An architectural gem!
While we don’t necessarily recommend staying in this area – Belem is a definitely a must see part of town. Splurge a little and get a cab, or take the tram, because it’s a little far from central area of town. We started where all the best days should start – at a pastry shop! And not just any old shop but the Pasteis de Belem! This place is famous and the line around the block just proves that. But truly – it is the best place for Pasteis de Nata.
To help work off all the deliciousness we just ingested we walked over to the Belem Palace. This pretty pink palace was once home to the Portuguese royal family. It’s interiors are typically lavish and the manicured gardens are worth a walk through.
Afterwards, we moved on to explore the Jeronimos Monastery. It’s a big place and if you go on a weekend you can expect to see a wedding or other ceremony being hosted on site. This may mean that certain parts are blocked off, but there is plenty more unique architecture and history to see in the monastery. This building’s architecture is unique to Portugal, as it is built in the Manueline style which infuses Gothic, Spanish, Moorish and Italian styles with distinctly nautical elements such as knots and ropes as a nod to Portugal’s success on the high seas. Across the street from the monastery you will find a wide promenade where you can walk along the Tagus River on the way to some of Belem’s other historic sights. One of the first things you will see, is the Padrao dos Descobrimentos (Monument to the Discoveries). This large monument documents Portugal’s maritime history in stone, from it’s ship shape (it’s a stone Caravel boat) to it’s parade of heroes. See if you can spot all 32 figures, or climb to the 6th floor for views of the river. But to be honest, we thought the views from the top were just ok, unless you really love seeing flat water?
As you walk on toward the Belem Tower stop for a quick drink and snack at Cervejaria Portugalia. Admittedly, this place is a bit touristy but we still dream about their beer sangria and have been searching for a decent replica ever since! Once your thirst has been quenched, meander to the Belem Tower. Another gem built in the Manueline style, the Tower is a left over from a larger set of defenses put up along the river. It is lovely inside and out and we recommend a walk through. It does get busy and only allows so many people in at a time so be patient! If you need a break spread out in the park in front of the tower. You can bring a picnic and take in the sunset. There are often little pop up restaurants or food stalls selling snacks and drinks as well.
Have you been to Lisbon? Do you think we missed any top sights?
